Author: John Holden

  • How to Care for Your New Landscape

    How to Care for Your New Landscape

    Your landscape is a dynamic environment that is constantly growing and evolving. It needs maintenance as it matures, including pruning, mulching and weeding.

    Just like changing the oil in your car or cleaning your chimney, there are tasks required to keep your landscape “Well tuned.”

    How to Water New Plantings

    The key to establishing plants is watering. Monitor and water new plants a minimum of two seasons after planting. For example, plants installed in the spring need watering through the spring and summer. Plants installed in the summer will need water through the summer and into fall.

    New plants should need one to two inches of water per week. Irrigate with a watering can, bucket, hose, sprinkler, your irrigation system or the rain. You must keep the soil moist while your plants are establishing.

    Water new plantings two to three times per week if there is insufficient rainfall. If using a hose or watering can water each plant multiple times to make sure the water soaks in. Water all the plants once and return when the water soaks in and water again. If using a sprinkler or irrigation system water long enough for the water to soak in to a minimum of four inches.

    Confirm that your plants need water by brushing the mulch aside under a plant and feel the soil an inch down. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to water. When in doubt, water. New plants don’t have established root systems.  It’s up to you to make sure there is ample water available.

    Continue watering until spring or fall arrives and the weather stays rainy. If drought conditions develop, more than five to seven days without rain, you will need to irrigate. If your plants wilt or have yellowing leaves you need to water more.

    What is Transplant Shock?

    We took your plants from the utopian environment at the nursery and put them in the back of a windswept truck to your home. When they arrived we cut their roots to prevent girdling and they probably had a branch or two break in transport. Then, even with the best of intentions, we sometimes miss a watering.

    Symptoms of transplant shock include yellowing and dropping of leaves, dieback, and lack of flowering for one to three years. In a season or two your plants won’t show any signs of their travels. The key is patience and diligence with watering.

    Not all plants that start the race will make it to the finish line.  There are some losses on every job, regardless of how carefully we ready the site and select your plants. If you notice a plant that looks like it’s not going to make the finish line please contact us so we can check and/or replace it as soon as possible.

    Should I Fertilize?

    We amended your soil at planting time.  You don’t need to apply fertilizer.  Additional fertilizer will cause excessive top growth and make your plants more susceptible to insects and disease.  As the mulch breaks down it gives your plants the nutrients they need.

    How Often Should I Mulch?

    Re-apply mulch every year or two. Annual light mulching minimizes weeds, conserves soil moisture and keep your landscape looking fresh and new. Applying mulch less often may result in more weeds and less oohs and ahs by the neighbors.

    Apply mulch to a total depth of two to three inches . Mulch over three inches starves roots of oxygen and encourages bark and root chewing rodents.

    When re-mulching a light dusting with a shovel or pitchfork is all that’s needed. When re-mulching keep the mulch in the wheelbarrow and apply only enough to cover the existing mulch up to two inches in-depth.

    Keep three to six inches of space between mulch and the trunks of trees and shrubs. Mulch touching bark encourages rodents and disease. Less is better when re-mulching. The mulch volcanoes erupting around commercial parking lots are a prime example of how not to mulch.

    When buying mulch use a finely ground natural bark product. Purchase mulch made of bark as opposed to wood.  Quality mulch will cost twice as much as the base offering at your supplier.  It’s worth every penny. Two quality mulches locally available are Pure Double Ground Hemlock Bark and Cedar Bark Mulch.

    Before re-mulching turn your mulch. Mulch that is not turned becomes an impenetrable mat that repels water and prevents oxygen from reaching your plants roots. Use a tool called a garden weasel, pitchfork or metal rake to fluff the mulch before re-applying.

    Please watch the video below for detailed instructions on how to turn the mulch in your gardens.

    Can You Help Maintain my Gardens?

    If you would like assistance maintaining your gardens our Garden Maintenance Program is for you. This service entails one or more visits per year to tend to the essentials of garden care, including edging, mulching, weeding, pruning, dead-heading, and fall clean up.

    Please watch the video below for more information about our garden maintenance program.

    If there are any details on caring for your landscape that are not clear please contact us for more information.

    An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

  • What’s the Difference Between a Landscape Designer and a Landscaper?

    What’s the Difference Between a Landscape Designer and a Landscaper?

    It happened again last week.  A client was trying to decide between my company and the company that mows their lawn.  The client hired the landscapers because my quote was a little higher.  Ugh!

    This week I drove through the neighborhood and felt disappointment. The gardens had cheap wood mulch and it was not deep enough to suppress weeds.  Two great ways to keep a quote low.  As a landscape designer, I recommended bark mulch two to three inches deep to make sure most weeds will not germinate.

    How do You Choose Between a Landscape Designer and a landscapers?

    The answer depends on your needs.

    If you want a creative landscape design and the proper horticultural methods followed, hire a landscape designer to design and carry out your project. Most landscape designers have an eye and passion for landscape design.  They have learned the right way to design, install and maintain landscapes because they couldn’t do it any other way.

    Many landscape designers start out as landscapers and graduate to design because of their love of plants and design. That is how I started after college.  I began by mowing lawns while building my landscape design experience and knowledge.

    Often landscapers don’t have extensive landscape design and horticultural knowledge. This spring I met a couple who asked me, “Do you pick out the plants?” I explained that, “The benefit of hiring me as your landscape designer is that I select the best plants to meet your needs and the site’s conditions.”  Landscapers they had talked to said, “Tell us what you want planted and we’ll plant it.”

    Landscapers are masters at getting the job done quickly. If you have a routine project, hire a reputable landscaper.  Projects that landscapers excel at include mowing lawns, spring and fall cleanups and clearing brush.

    If you are looking for someone to mow your lawn and clean up your yard in the spring and fall, hire a landscaper. However, if you are looking for a creative eye to recommend the best plants,  design the best landscape for your home and use the best methods to plant your garden, seek out a landscape designer.

    The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. – John Ruskin

  • Solutions for Frost and Freeze Damage on Tree and Shrub Foliage

    Solutions for Frost and Freeze Damage on Tree and Shrub Foliage

    Temperatures below freezing often cause frost and freeze damage on trees and shrubs from mid to late spring.  Often the damage is minor and effected trees and shrubs will grow out of it.

    Look for signs of frost and freeze damage such as leaves on the tips of branches that are browning out.  The foliage will turn black or brown and may become gooey or limp.  If you are lucky the damage will only be on the tips of trees and shrubs where new growth is emerging.

    Cercidiphyllum japonicum - Katsura Tree Frost Damage

    Sometimes frost and freeze damage will affect growth farther back from the tips of trees and shrubs.  This is rarer but does happen.

    If frost and freeze damage is minor the best solution is to wait and see if the plant grows out of the damage.  In about a month dead foliage will be gone and you should see new growth.  Prune out all remaining dead foliage after two months.

    Clethra barbinervis Japanese Clethra Frost Damage

    If the damage is more extensive, effecting growth deeper into the tree or shrub, the best course of action is to wait a couple of months and see if new growth emerges.  Often a branch that looks dead will have swollen buds and fresh growth emerging.  Have patience before you make drastic pruning decisions.

    Some trees and shrubs are more vulnerable to frost and freeze damage than others.  The most notable example is the Laceleaf Japanese Maple – Acer palmatum ‘Dissectum’.  You may also see damage similar to the Katusura, Clethra and Pieris pictured.

    Pieris japonica - Japanese Pieris Frost Damage

    It is important to know what frost and freeze damage looks like so you don’t mistake it for a pest or disease.

    By John Holden

  • Why I’m Still a Landscaper

    Why I’m Still a Landscaper

    Coventry Lane in Trumbull, Connecticut, is where I began my landscaping career after graduating from the University of Connecticut with a degree in Ornamental Horticulture.  I eagerly put green fliers with a picturesque tree and my inspired ad copy in mailboxes.  Then I anxiously waited for the phone to ring.

    I was new to the landscaping field and feared people would not hire me.  Who would want someone just out of college to landscape their property?  I had the education but not the real world experience.

    The people on Coventry Lane were excited to have someone with passion working in their yard.  I was greeted with genuine smiles and remember many wonderful conversations with my clients.  Not once did I feel like, “Just a landscaper.”

    Trumbull CT Landscaper
    That’s me in 1993 at 22 years old with my first commercial lawn mower. How proud!

    My time on Coventry Lane taught me a lesson I hope to teach my children.

    People are all the same and should be treated the same no matter where they come from or what they do for a living.

    My clients these days are self made people; such as doctors, lawyers, business executives and the self-employed.  When I am working on their property they are happy to see my work.  People invite me into their kitchen to discuss their project as their children play in the next room.  People with little spare time ask how my children are doing and listen as I give way too long an answer.

    One of the best motivators of human spirit is appreciation.

    When a client glows with excitement because of my work I am elated.  I am living the dream.  I am doing a job I love and getting paid to do it.

    trumbull ct landscapers
    My first client. They called after receiving my green flier with the large picturesque tree.

    When I drive down Coventry Lane today I am just out of college with the world at my feet.   I am driving my first pickup truck with brand new tools in the back.  I am going to make it, doing it my way and nothing is going to stop me.

    I guess some things never change.

    By John Holden

  • Creating a Landscape Design Base Plan

    Creating a Landscape Design Base Plan

    newtown ct landscape designerToday I got to work drafting the base plan for a Newtown, Connecticut, Landscape Design.

    First, I calculate the scale to use so my landscape design will fit on the paper.  Most landscape designs are larger in area then they seem when measuring the site.

    Now I make a draft of the base plan based on the measurements I took during the site analysis. Unwanted site elements are left out.  The focus is on moving forward when designing.

    Once I complete the base plan I overlay it with a piece of drafting paper and trace the base plan through the drafting paper to align the design.

    Finally I trace the base plan with black marker of differing weights. The heavier the line the heavier or larger the object. The foundation gets the heaviest line followed by the sidewalk, driveway and stone walls on the site.

    I print a label for the plan and place it on the corner.  It is now time to begin drafting a landscape design for my Newtown CT clients.

    By John Holden

  • Enkianthus campanulatus – A Different Shrub for Connecticut Gardens

    Enkianthus campanulatus – A Different Shrub for Connecticut Gardens

    Redvein Enkianthus is an underused shrub in Connecticut gardens. I admit I don’t give this medium-sized shrub the love it deserves. That will be changing in the year ahead.

    Enkianthus flowers from late May to early June. Different cultivars and plants within cultivars have differing amounts of red and pink on a yellow backdrop.

    Redvein enkianthus bloom.

    Redvein Enkianthus is a deciduous shrub growing four to six feet tall in Connecticut gardens.  From a slight distance enkianthus foliage looks very similar to a Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia).  Enkianthus is deciduous unlike the evergreen foliage of Mountain Laurel.

    Prune Redvein Enkianthus selectively immediately after bloom for the most natural growth habit and best flower.  You can control the ultimate size of the plant if you maintain selective pruning methods.

    Redvein enkianthus mature.

    I have never seen Redvein Enkianthus over five feet tall in a Connecticut garden.  I did see the beauty above at an arboretum in Massachusetts.

    If you are looking for a shrub for Connecticut gardens that is both rare and different you found it in Redvein Enkianthis!  For more information please visit my alma mater at the UCONN Plant Database.

    By John Holden

  • Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’ – A Colorful Groundcover for Connecticut Gardens

    Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’ – A Colorful Groundcover for Connecticut Gardens

    liriope muscari

    Variegated Big Blue Lilyturf is an attractive, low maintenance and reliable groundcover for Connecticut gardens.

    Variegated Big Blue Lilyturf grows in clumps about a foot tall.  It flowers in September with twelve-inch tall lavender flower spikes.  After flowering the spikes can either be cut back or left for fall interest.

    The yellow variegated foliage brightens any dark corner of your landscape.  Cut foliage back in late-fall or early spring.

    Variegated Big Blue Lilyturf grows in partial shade.  If planted in full sun the foliage will bleach.  Lilyturf is not fussy about the type of soil it grows in, as long as it is not constantly damp.

    In the above Connecticut garden I planted Variegated Big Blue Lilyturf with evergreen boxwood behind and Fothergilla, a spring blooming shrub, intermingled around it.

    By John Holden

  • Newtown CT Landscape Design Site Analysis

    Newtown CT Landscape Design Site Analysis

    Today I completed the site analysis for a landscape design in Newtown, Connecticut.  A site analysis is the first, and most vital step, when you measure and assess the site you are designing.

    Landscape design is about getting a feel for the site.  How much sun does the space get?  What type of soil is on the site?  How does water flow over the site?  What type of emotion do I feel when on the site?  How can I enhance, or negate, that emotion?

    It takes an hour or two for the site analysis of a basic landscape design.  Yes, I could rush in, take some measurements, snap a few pictures and be gone in half an hour.  A little extra time getting to know the site will lead to a better landscape design for this Newtown, Connecticut home.  I look at the area from many different angles.  Constantly asking myself, “What if I…?”

    While completing the site analysis I start with the big picture and work down to the details.

    First, I take pictures of the site from every possible angle.  Digital pictures are cheap and I can extrapolate a measurement I missed or recall the view from the road.

    Next, I draw a sketch of the area and take measurements of the site.  While taking pictures and measuring the site I am keeping an eye out for elements of the site that will affect the design.  Are there any obstacles to move or work around?  Is there a better way to design this walkway?  How much sun does this space get?

    At last I am ready to start drafting a preliminary landscape design.  It does not have to be perfect right now.  My goal is to jot down my thoughts quickly before they disappear.  I write the names of some plants I will use, most plants names are generic, such as small flowering shrub, large evergreen, perennial etc.  My goal is to have a rough idea what size and type plants I need.

    Once I leave the job site the design mostly completed.  It’s a matter of going to the drafting table and drawing a scaled base plan and filling the spaces with my thoughts.  I also do some research on plants and materials to use during the design process.

    All decisions for this landscape design in Newtown, Connecticut, are based on the site analysis.  Doesn’t it make sense to spend a little extra time getting a feel for the site?

  • Where to Begin Your Landscape Design?

    Where to Begin Your Landscape Design?

    In my job as a Newtown, Connecticut, landscape designer I often meet people who have chosen to improve their landscape. Some have moved into a new home and need a front yard planting.  Others have an overgrown landscape that has literally eaten their house.

    Often future clients are unsure where to start developing their landscape.  They obsess over what plants to use in the landscape, what material to use for the walkway or the investment for their project.

    Design your landscape by working from the big picture down to the details.  At the beginning of the design process I ask clients questions such as:

    • What area do you want to design?
    • What function will the design serve?
    • What do you like about your current landscape?
    • What do you not like about your current landscape?
    • How will people move through the landscape?
    • Is your style more contemporary or traditional?
    • How soon do you want the design to look established?
    • Why? (Repeat often, it is a goldmine of information!)

    Remember, if you work from the big picture to the details, developing your landscape design will be both thorough and enjoyable.