Category: How to Landscaping

  • Grass Edging Tool for Tree Rings

    Grass Edging Tool for Tree Rings

    Yesterday, I cut a fresh edge around a couple of sugar maples with my favorite grass edging tool. We had rain and fog in the morning and the soil was soft. Perfect for edging!

    Spade for Grass Edging Tool

    Sometimes, I prefer to use a sharp spade to edge the lawn. I don’t always use an edging tool.

    Sharp, clean and oiled tools make me a better landscaper.

    Wheelbarrow Full of Garden Tools

    It’s easier to edge a curved bed with a spade than a grass edging tool. The curve of the spade works with the curve of the bed. Don’t get me wrong, I can cut straight or curved edges with either edger.

    When cutting edges with a spade, keep your cuts close together to avoid a sawtooth edge. You can see each individual c-shaped cut of the spade below which is acceptible.

    Closeup of Fresh Edgings

    I like edging with a spade better but it’s rough on my shoulder and takes more planning. The tighter the curve the more I prefer the spade for an edging tool.

    Closeup of Freshly Edged Tree Rings

    Cleaning up Edgings

    It didn’t take long to re-edge these two tree rings with my grass edging tool. I decided to wait to clean up the edgings. In a day, or two, the edgings will dry out becoming lighter and easier to clean up.

    Wheelbarrow with Freshly Edged Tree Rings in Background

    I use a flat shovel or pitchfork to pick up the large pieces of grass and rocks—a light raking levels out the remaining soil.

    Edgings are great for filling low spots in the yard. Further, if you’re lucky, there’s a low spot closer than where you would dump the debris.

    Wheelbarrows

    I purchased that wheelbarrow from A.M. Leonard over 20 years ago. It’s lightweight, heavy-duty and bulletproof. If you like quality tools, I recommend this A.M. Leonard wheelbarrow. A.M. Leonard makes the same wheelbarrow with a flat-free tire.

    Wheelbarrow and Birdbaths near Freshly Edged Tree Rings

    Edging Lawn with Spade Video

    At the end of this video, starting at 7:15, I show you my method for edging beds with a spade rather than a grass edging tool.

  • Spring Seeding Tips

    Spring Seeding Tips

    A couple of weeks ago I performed a spring seeding of my lawn and would like to share some spring seeding tips. My goal was to fill bare spots and overseed my dog’s run. Overseeding the run is most likely a waste of time but I had to give it a try.

    I live in USDA Hardiness Zone 6 where we grow cool-season grass. In a nutshell, cool-season grass goes dormant in the winter when temperatures are cold and over the summer when temperatures are hot.

    My goal is to complete spring overseeding as early as possible. Definitely before forsythia bloom. If there are a few warm days at the end of winter and the ground isn’t muddy I take advantage of the opportunity to overseed thin spots.

    The ideal time to plant cool-season grass is late August to September when temperatures are cool and rainfall abundant. I don’t plant new lawns in the spring unless absolutely necessary. However, spring overseeding and filling bare spots is acceptable.

    The first thing I did was run my Aerovator over the bare areas. If you don’t have an Aerovator you can rent an aerator or use a metal rake to roughen the soil. Grass seed wants to grow and if kept moist it will.

    Toro TX425 with Aerovator for Aerating Lawns

    The Aerovator has solid tines, unlike an aerator’s hollow tines, which penetrate the soil and vibrate.

    Aerovator Tines for Aerating Lawns

    Again, you don’t need an Aerovator to do the job but once you see the results you’ll be amazed. The machine leaves the lawn spongy soft with holes that allow air, water, nutrients and seed to enter.

    Aerovator Aerating Results are Deep Holes and Loose Soil

    While the Aerovator is an aggressive machine, you can control the amount it disturbs the soil. However, if there is no grass cover, like my dog’s run, the results are very similar to using a tiller.

    Once I aerovated the lawn I generously spread Lesco Shady Select Grass Seed. I have a lot of sugar maples that provide plenty of shade.

    Lesco Shady Select Grass Seed Bag

    Most cool-season grass seed mixes contain bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass. If you have shade you want a seed mix with more fescue. The amount of fescue in this seed mix is off the charts! I can’t wait to see how it does.

    Lesco Shady Select Grass Seed Label

    When seeding I always go heavy. Clients like to see grass as soon as possible and I like to grow grass as thick as possible.

    Aerated Lawn with Grass Seed

    I used the back of a bamboo rake to incorporate the seed into the soil. While I know every tutorial ever written on planting grass says to do this I admit I often skip this step and the seed does wonderfully. Again, the secret to growing grass is to keep the seed moist.

    Using Back of Rake to Incorporate Seed

    Finally, I top-dressed the area with a light coating of compost. I would say the compost is 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick.

    Spreading Compost on Fresh Grass Seed

    I selected well-aged compost with little debris. I picked some debris out while shoveling the compost into the wheelbarrow.

    Quality Compost for Topdressing Grass Seed

    Once finished composting I walked away and didn’t water once. It’s been a relatively warm, yet dry, spring and I’m happy to say after two and a half weeks there’s a green fuzz in the backyard. We did get a couple of rainstorms.

    Newly Germinated Grass Seed

    I would have better results if I watered the new seed, and you will too, but it’s early enough that mother nature will do most of the work. Seeing the seedlings motivated me to start watering though it’s supposed to rain the next couple of days.

    Freshly Germinated Grass Seed

    As you can see above seeding my dog’s run was an exercise in futility. However, if you use these spring seeding tips in your yard you’ll have great results.

  • 3 Landscaping Pet Peeves

    3 Landscaping Pet Peeves

    Some landscaping practices should be avoided. Below are my top three landscaping pet peeves.

    Tags left on Plants

    Tags left on plants

    Why would anyone leave plant tags fluttering in the wind? Leaving tags on plants takes a beautiful landscape and makes it look like the side of the highway. Please remove all tags before leaving the job.

    I occasionally leave a tag on a new plant, at my house, so I can remember what I planted or learn a plant’s name. However, if you’re bringing a plant to someone’s house either know what it is or keep a list of what you planted.

    A great way to practice plant identification is to walk through a newly installed commercial landscape. Guess what the tree or shrub is and check the tag to see if you got it right!

    Landscape Fabric

    landscape fabric in the landscape

    There’s never a reason to install landscape fabric under mulch.

    In a few years, the mulch will break down and weeds will grow into the fabric becoming a headache to remove. In ten to fifteen years, when it’s time to redo the landscape, someone will suffer while ripping the fabric out. If you’ve never ripped out landscape fabric I assure you it’s no fun.

    Landscape Fabric with Weed Roots

    There’s never a reason to install landscape fabric under gravel either.

    Dirt settles in gravel and creates the perfect seedbed for weeds. Weed roots anchor to landscape fabric under gravel the same as under mulch. It’s more of a hassle than it’s worth.

    Volcano Mulching

    volcano mulching

    Trees are not supposed to look like a fountain of lava shooting out of the top of a volcano. If you leave mulch against the base of a tree you’re doing more harm than good.

    A properly mulched tree should have, at most, two to three inches of mulch tapering down six inches or more away from the tree.

    Please stop the volcano mulching madness.

    How to Mulch Trees Incorrectly Sample 3

    If you’re new to landscaping please heed the pet peeves on this page so your landscape doesn’t suffer.

  • Spread Less Mulch For a More Healthy Landscape

    Spread Less Mulch For a More Healthy Landscape

    This spring I visited a home that had recently been mulched and was shocked at how deep the mulch was and how little preparation went into the job.

    Weeds that had been covered in mulch poked through and the mulch was easily four to five inches deep.

    Weeds Growing Through Mulch

    I recommend carrying a soil knife and removing perennial weeds, such as Dandelion, down to the root before mulching.

    This garden should not have been mulched; the time and expense should have gone into weeding.

    More Weeds Growing Through Mulch

    Deep mulch leads to unhealthy plants and looks unnatural. On some jobs, I have to remove deep, old mulch before applying new.

    Once a garden is established an inch of mulch is all you need.

    Benefits of light mulching include:

    • Mulch won’t require yearly turning.
    • Oxygen can easily enter the soil.
    • Mulched over tree bark won’t become an entry point for insects, disease, and rodents.
    • Water easily filters through.
    • Less mulch looks more natural, like a coating of leaves on the forest floor.
    • Plant roots grow into the soil instead of growing into mulch that quickly dries.

    Whether you’re a contractor or a homeowner try not applying mulch one year and see the difference it makes. Your plants will be healthier with significantly less work and expense.

    Below is a landscape I mulched this spring by applying just enough mulch to do the job. No more. No less.

    Light Coating of Mulch

    Spread less mulch for a more healthy landscape and sometimes you don’t need to add any mulch at all.

  • How to Mulch a Tree Incorrectly

    How to Mulch a Tree Incorrectly

    Every spring I cringe when I see freshly mulched landscapes.  The more is better principle gets beaten silly and mulch spread with reckless abandon.

    This isn’t the first time I’ve discussed how to mulch and it won’t be the last.  How to mulch correctly is a topic worth repeating.

    Volcano mulching is when a mound of mulch is spread around the base of a tree (See photo top of page).  The cone grows yearly with each new layer.  The sooner we can stop volcano mulching the better.

    Below a tree thrives in the forest with no volcano mulching ‘help’ from man.  There’s moss growing at the base of the tree because leaves only begin to cover the ground six inches away.Oak Tree In Forest Mulched by Mother Nature

    Mimic how mother nature mulches.  She doesn’t dump piles of leaves against the base of trees.  She spreads a light coating of leaves over the entire forest.

    Why is this so hard to understand?

    The illustration below shows how to mulch a tree incorrectly by volcano mulching.  Mulch spread against the bark creates a moist place that encourages rot.  Further, tree roots grow into the mulch making them drought prone.  Finally, the mulch is so deep rain runs off and doesn’t reach the roots.

    How to Mulch Incorrectly Around Trees

    The illustration below shows how to mulch a tree correctly by spreading 2-3 inches or less of mulch 6-12 inches from the trunk of the tree.  Mulch doesn’t touch the trunk.

    How to Mulch Around Trees Correctly
    If a tree has over 3 inches of mulch carefully remove it without injuring the bark or roots of the tree.

    How to Mulch a Tree Correctly Samples

    Below a tree I mulched last year has some dirt and moss around the base of the tree.  It would be a shame to slowly kill this beautiful tree by over-mulching.

    Tree Mulched Correctly

    Another tree mulched the right way.  You can see dirt at the base of the tree and that’s good.  A few weeds may grow but it’s worth the effort.

    Tree Mulched Correctly

    How to Mulch a Tree Incorrectly Samples

    I often see trees so over mulched you could mulch several more trees with the excess.  I’m not kidding!

    More volcano mulching.  It doesn’t look natural and it’s no good for the tree.  The madness has to stop!How to Mulch Trees Incorrectly Sample 3

    Same look, different parking lot.

    How to Mulch Trees Incorrectly Sample 4

    A beautiful oak tree sentenced to a slow and painful death.

    How to Mulch Trees Incorrectly Sample 3

    Why would someone do this?  I can’t make this stuff up.

    How to Mulch Trees Incorrectly Sample 5

    Please help stop the volcano mulching madness.

  • Weeding Tools Recommendations

    Weeding Tools Recommendations

    Today I used several weeding tools to maintain a garden overgrown with weeds.

    Truth be told it was my fault.

    Last fall I overseeded the lawn and some seed found its way into the beds.  The gardens were a mix of grass, dandelions and chickweed.

    I spent the afternoon ‘hacking’ away at the weeds with my weeding tools.  I’d like to share the method to my madness with you.

    Weeding Tools Recommendations

    First, I went through the beds with my weeding knife (Far right) and pulled the dandelions.  If you cut dandelions with a hoe the long tap-root will grow back.  You have to dig down and remove the root.

    Next, I went through the front of the bed with my grub hoe (Second from left).  The grub hoe packs more of a punch than a hoe.  It’s perfect for removing heavy weeds and sod.

    I used my cutting hoe (Second from right) where the weeds were sparse.  A cutting hoe with a sharp edge is the right tool for stray chickweed.

    Four Weeding Tools Results
    Piles of weeds at the front of the bed ready to pick up with a manure fork.

    A manure fork is a perfect tool to load weed piles into a wheelbarrow.  A manure fork has sharp tines and lightweight.  I recommend you buy a 5 tine manure fork.

    I hope you’ll try one of the weeding tools above to improve your productivity when weeding gardens.

  • Tips for Getting Work Done

    Tips for Getting Work Done

    After three days of hard work I’m almost finished preparing a garden bed.  It was a hard-fought victory that taught me tips for getting work done.

    We’ve had a mild winter and I looked forward to working with the temperature in the 50’s and 60’s.  Last week the weather changed.  It’s been in the low 40’s with overcast skies and showers.

    Landscape Before work Begins - Tips for Getting Work Done
    The first thing I do when I arrive at a job is formulate a plan to get the work done.

    First, I removed six yards of mulch from around a Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum sp.) and the landscape fabric underneath.  There was too much mulch around the tree.

    Mulch over six inches deep - Tips for Getting Work Done
    There was over six inches of mulch under the Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum sp.) along with landscape fabric. The mulch and the landscape fabric had to go for the health of the tree.

    Removing Mulch Under the Red Maple - Tips for Getting Work Done
    Removing excess mulch around the Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum sp.).

    The only place to get rid of the mulch was off the property.  That meant loading a wheelbarrow and pushing it up a 15 foot slope to my truck about 40 yards away.

    Did I mention this was my first job of the season?  My body is nowhere near conditioned yet.

    This afternoon as I finished for the day the sun broke through the clouds.  It was like the heavens opened up and said, “Attaboy John!”

    Sun Shines on the Future Garden - Tips for Getting Work Done
    In a weird twist of fate the sun broke through the clouds as I was finishing for the day. The line through the bed is a future stepping stone path.

    Tips for getting work done

        1. Get started.  Even if you don’t have a plan for how to do the work.  When you start a plan will form in your mind.  I’m talking about a plan to complete the work, not a landscape design.
        2. Congratulate yourself for getting started.  If you the type of person, like me, who occasionally over thinks things don’t beat yourself up for lost time.
        3. Enjoy the work.  I enjoy good “clean” hard work.  Digging, mulching, splitting wood, etc.  I feel energized, albeit exhausted, after a days work.
        4. Break the job into manageable pieces.  I set a goal for each day.  My first day on most jobs the goal is to get to the job and get started.  Once I’m working a plan will form (See step 1).  The second day my goal was to clean up the mulch under the Japanese Maple.  The third day my goal was to finish preparing the bed.  By the third day I gained momentum and prepared another bed.
        5. Take a break if you need one.  Nothing saps productivity like rushing through a job or stressing about a deadline.  It may seem counter productive but you’ll notice big dividends from a break.
        6. Wear comfortable shoes.  A landscaper is only as good as his or her footwear.  If your shoes are heavy you’ll move slowly.  If your feet are wet your day will be miserable.  Some days I bring a couple pair of shoes and a heavy and light weight sweatshirt.  The first two days I wore heavy insulated steel toe boots.  When the sun broke I put my lightweight Muck Boots on and felt like I could fly.  I wear the lightest shoes I can.  The exception is when I need steel toes for safety.

    Muck Boots vs Winter Boots - Tips for Getting Work Done
    Given the choice I prefer my lighter and more comfortable muck boots.

    You started the job.  You’re going to finish it.  That’s all that matters.

    I hope these tips for getting work done will help you get through your next job.  Get out there and have fun!

  • Prune Lawn Trees High

    Prune Lawn Trees High

    I just returned from an evening walk with Theo and my forehead burns from a fresh scratch.

    Theo walked around a tree four feet from the road.  As I went around the back a branch caught me 3 inches above the eyes.

    I did have a flashlight.  I was looking at the ground for footing and suddenly smack!

    This is a great example of why it’s so important to prune lawn trees above people’s heads.  Assume folks will be walking in the dark and can’t see where they’re going.

    People driving down the street or your driveway also appreciate not having their cars scratched.

    A final friendly tip.  Don’t leave stubs on a tree, especially at eye height, where someone can lose an eye.

    Theo the Great Pyrenees Mix Pupply
    Theo our Great Pyrenees mix puppy.  He’s 90 lbs at just over a year old.  What a sweetheart.  He loves people, dogs, cats and creatures of all shapes and sizes.

     

  • How Close to House to Plant Shrubs

    How Close to House to Plant Shrubs

    The short answer.  As far as possible.

    Plants are constantly growing taller and spreading wider.

    When planting small to medium shrubs my goal is 1-2 feet of air between the edge of a shrub and the home.  Not just when I plant.  For the life of the landscape.

    You can prune the back of a shrub, where no one sees, as often as needed to keep the gap.

    If there isn’t a gap you’re in trouble.

    Shrub too Close to House
    I saw this Rhododendron slammed against the house this Spring.  It motivated me to write this post.

    Shrub planted too close to house
    This Rhododendron is an extreme example of planting too close.

    Medium shrubs like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Spirea, Holly and Boxwood go  2.5-3′ from the side of the house.

    I can easily walk behind the shrubs after planting.

    Rhododendron Planted Next to House
    This rhododendron has a 2′ gap between the foliage and the side of the house.

    Large shrubs and small trees like Viburnum, Dogwood and Stewartia go a minimum of 6′ from the edge of the house and preferably 8′.

    Viburnum Planted Next to House
    This Viburnum is 8′ from the house. Imagine the pruning nightmare if it was 3-4′ away.

    When in doubt plant farther from the house.  You’ll never regret it.