There is plenty of information about how to prune using the three cut method. Today I’d like to show you why to prune using the three cut method.
When pruning trees and shrubs we want the wound to heal quickly. The quicker the wound heals the better your tree or shrub can seal out attack by disease, rot, and insects.
The three cut method lets your trees and shrubs heal quickly.
How to Prune Trees and Shrubs Using the Three Cut Method
We are going to make three cuts with our pruning saw to remove a branch.
First Cut
Cut from the underside of the branch about a foot from the trunk. Make this cut about a third of the diameter of the branch. If you’re pruning a large branch remove limbs farther out to lighten the load.
Second Cut
Cut from the top of the branch about half-inch to an inch outside the first cut. The undercut you made in step one will prevent the bark from peeling and damaging the trunk as the branch falls.
Third Cut
Now it is time to make the most important cut at the trunk of the tree or shrub. There are two parts of the tree you should know about at this phase.
Branch Bark Ridge – The ridged line of bark along the crotch of the tree.
Branch Collar – The swollen growth along the branch.
Your goal is to cut the branch just outside the branch collar and never cut into the branch bark ridge so the cut will heal quickly and seal out insects, disease and moisture.
I look for the swollen part of the branch and try to prune just outside.
If you cut into the Branch Bark Ridge of Branch Collar you can injure the callous tissue of the tree and it may never close the wound, exposing the tree to disease and rot.
Conclusion
If you take a little extra time to do it right your trees and shrubs will thrive. Be sure your pruning tools are sharp, it reduces the effort involved and improves your cuts. Now go out and have fun!
By John Holden
Comments
8 responses to “How to Prune Using the Three Cut Method”
Thanks John! I’m wondering when would be the best time to prune my pear tree. It’s producing fruit but they’re very tiny. I live in NJ. Thank you!
Are you trying to prune a fruit bearing pear tree or an ornamental pear tree?
Hi John,
It is fruit bearing but they are very tiny. I don’t think the tree has ever been pruned (we just moved in), so I was hoping that if we started pruning, we may see larger fruit in a few years.
Thank you!
By very tiny do you mean smaller than a marble? Is the habit very upright with glossy leaves? You may have the ornamental variety. The best time to prune deciduous trees is late winter to early spring when they have time to replace the growth in the coming season.
Oh goodness, that is VERY tiny! No, they are definitely larger than a marble. They look like dwarfed pears– about 3 inches tall. I will check on the leaves tomorrow when it is light out. Thanks!
Hi John. I can’t really tell if they’re glossy. They’re not overtly glossy but they do have a sheen. So perhaps it is in fact ornamental. Regardless, we’d like to prune as it has some growths that are very low to the ground and/or growing into the garage. Based on this, per your last reply, do you recommend late winter/early spring?
Thank you!
I would prune late Winter to early Spring Christine. It’s the best time for pruning most deciduous trees.
I can’t really tell if they are glossy or not. They are somewhat glossy, making me think that it might just be ornamental. At any rate, regardless of whether it’s ornamental or not, when can I prune? If there are branches at the bottom that I don’t want there and don’t care about growing back, can I just cut them or should I still do it a certain was as per your video, to minimize risk of pest/disease invasion?
Thank you.